Rick Durham, Consumer Horticulture Extension Specialist, University of Kentucky
 
Pest control for non-fruiting apple trees.

Freezing temperatures April 8^th and 9^th may have resulted in crop losses for much of central and eastern Kentucky. So what part of the spray schedule should be followed for apple trees that are not fruiting? Basically one can skip those sprays that are directed toward pests that would normally impact only the fruit. So for apple and pear there will be no need to control fruit rots, plant bugs or stink bugs, sooty blotch, codling moth, plum curculio, or pear psylla. One should make an effort to control scab, fire blight, rust, and leaf spot since these diseases also impact the leaves. Many of these diseases overwinter on dead leaves so a lack of control this season may result in increased disease incidence next year. Also continue to watch for San Jose scale to avoid a buildup of this insect. Borers may be a particular problem for the next few years since these insects tend to seek out trees that are under stress (such as that imposed by the 1999 drought). For more information consult ID-21, Disease and Insect Control Programs for Homegrown Fruit in Kentucky Including Organic Alternatives.
 

Summer pruning of blackberries and raspberries.

Remember that blackberries and most raspberries will fruit on canes that are two years old. One can increase the amount of fruit produced next year by tip pruning or pinching back these canes during their first year of growth. Pinch off the tips of black and purple raspberries when they reach a height of 2 or 3 feet, respectively. This will encourage the production of side branches where fruit will be produced next season. (Red raspberries should not be pinched since they to do not produce lateral branches when pinched.) Pinching is done for erect blackberries, but allow the canes to reach a height or 4 feet or so before pinching. Trailing thornless blackberries can be pinched when the canes reach 6-7 feet. Semi-erect blackberries are usually trained to a trellis system. Summer pinch extremely vigorous canes when they get above the trellis wire to keep the plants in bound. Pinching (or tip pruning) in this manner concentrates growth in lateral branches and promotes more fruit production on these canes the following year. Next spring while the canes are still dormant, prune back the lateral branches to 10 to 12 inches for raspberries, and 18 inches for blackberries, and remove any week canes and canes that fruited during the previous season by cutting them off at ground level. Proper pruning will help ensure a bumper crop of fruit next year.
 

Summer bulbs.

May is the time for planting summer "bulbs" such as amaryllis, tuberous begonia, caladium, canna, calla lily, dahlia, gladiolus, and others. The term bulb is used loosely since many of these structures are actually not bulbs but rhizomes, tubers, or corms. The term summer bulb usually refers to tender bulbs, meaning those structures which will not overwinter under Kentucky conditions. Therefore, to keep these plants going from year to year, it will be necessary to dig the bulbs in the fall before the soil freezes, and store them in a protected place until planting can occur in spring. Whether your are planting previously stored bulbs, or purchasing new bulbs for this year's garden, plant only bulbs that are firm and dense. Bulbs that feel light may have dried excessively and will likely not grow as well as heavier bulbs. Bulbs that are soft are likely infected with rots and should be discarded. Plant summer bulbs at a depth equal to two or three times their diameter, perhaps a little deeper in sandy soils. Thoroughly water the bulbs when planting, then only provide supplemental irrigation during times of drought. Fertilizer is usually not applied at planting but is applied once the plants are established. Work a complete fertilizer, such as 10-10-10 into the top few inches of the soil at a rate of 1-2 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid fertilizing in late summer as this may promote excessive growth at a time when the plants should be slowing down to enter dormancy. Allow foliage to die back naturally in the fall and dig the bulbs before the soil freezes. Some bulbs, such as gladiolus, can be dried and stored much like onions. Other bulbs, such as dahlia, do not tolerate this degree of drying. They should be covered with dry peat moss or some similar material that provides air circulation and placed in boxes or paper bags. Inspect the stored bulbs periodically and discard any that show signs of rot. For more information on summer bulbs consult HO-80, Spring, Summer, and Fall Bulbs.
 

Houseplant care.

Many people place houseplants outdoors during late spring and summer. This can be great for the plants since they will likely get better air circulation and light exposure than they experienced during the winter months indoors. This may also be an excellent time to repot your house plants if they are becoming pot bound. Here are some precautions. Wait until the weather is consistently warm before moving plants outdoors. Most houseplants are of tropical origin and may be damaged by temperatures below 40-45 degrees. Do not immediately move houseplants into direct sun outdoors, even if you know a particular plant prefers high light conditions. Plants will need time to acclimate to higher light intensities. Gradually increase the amount of light intensity by placing plants first under a covered patio or large shade tree and gradually moving them to higher light intensities. Allow them to acclimate to their new conditions for seven to ten days before moving to a new, sunnier location. If you notice bleaching or burning of foliage, reduce the light intensity for another week or so before moving to higher light. Some plants will never tolerate high light and will prefer to grow under somewhat shady conditions. Remember that as the light intensity is increased, most plants will require more water and will benefit from increased applications of fertilizer. Water thoroughly as the top few inches of potting medium begins to dry. Follow label directions when applying fertilizers. Take similar steps in reverse when you are ready to move plants back indoors for the fall and winter. Gradually cut back on water and fertilizer as you reduce the amount of light the plants receive. Also be sure to inspect plants for pest before moving them indoors. Any needed pest treatments are more easily performed outdoors and pest that have become established may be difficult to control once the plants have been moved indoors.