Rick Durham, Consumer Horticulture Extension Specialist, University of Kentucky
 

Live Christmas trees for the holidays.

Selection and purchase of a Christmas tree is an annual event for many families. More and more people are choosing to use a living tree that can be transplanted to the landscape once the holiday season is over. For many people this is a good option since the money usually spent on a disposable tree can be invested in a specimen that can add value to the landscape. However, care must be taken when bringing a temperate tree indoors for any length of time and then transplanting it outdoors, especially in winter. Here are some pointers to increase the chances of success.

• Living trees are generally marketed as either balled-and-burlapped or potted plants. Expect to pay more for a living tree than a cut tree and realize that nurseries are reluctant to guarantee your purchase since the tree will not be planted during the normal planting season.
• Consider where the tree will be placed in the landscape. Most Christmas tree species will eventually reach a height of at least 40-60 feet so appropriate planning is essential.
• Pick out the tree early so that a nicely shaped, vigorous plant can be chosen. But plan to keep the tree inside for no longer than 7-10 days. In the interim, go ahead and dig the hole where the tree will be transplanted and store the tree in this location. Be sure to keep the roots moist. Having the hole dug ahead of time will avoid any problems of inclement weather after the holidays.
• When it's time to bring the tree indoors, the main concerning is to protect the plant from drying out. Avoid placing the tree near a radiator or other drafty place-keeping the tree on the cool side is also preferable. Place the tree in a large tub or cover the root ball in plastic to avoid spilling water onto the floor. Allow water to evenly soak into the root ball by applying it as a slow stream. It may be easier to water the plant by placing ice around the top of the soil and allow it to slowly melt and soak into the soil. Don't go overboard and keep the root ball extremely wet as this may damage the root system.
• After Christmas, the tree should be planted immediately in the pre-dug hole. Water the plant well after filling in the hole with soil. Water periodically throughout the winter, especially during warmer weather. In spring and summer, water the plant every week as you would any other newly transplanted tree.

 

As we prepare to put our landscape to sleep this fall, we should also not neglect our lawn mower and other power equipment that has served us so well over the summer. Start off by running the gas out of the tank, disconnect the spark plug wire, and clean any accumulated grass from under the mower, then move the mower to a clean, dry place for storage. This is also a great time to change the oil and check and change air filters as needed. Why not go ahead and have the blade sharpened and any other repairs or maintenance taken care of now instead of waiting until next spring? When these activities are put off until spring, there is often a long line at the shop or hardware store. In the hustle and bustle of the holiday season, it's somewhat rewarding to run an errand and not have to wait in long lines. And just think how proud you will be when your have the first freshly mown lawn next spring!
 

Fallen leaves as mulch.

Do fallen leaves make good mulch? Yes and no. It's fine to put a few leaves around shrubs and over dormant perennials, however, be careful not to apply to many. Applying leaves to a depth greater than two inches may cause some problems. A shallow layer, two inches or less, should not pose a problem but deeper layers of leaves tend to suffocate the plant's root system and inhibit water movement into the soil. So is bagging leaves the only answer? Not at all. Fallen leaves mixed with freshly mowed grass make an excellent addition to the compost pile. The leaves are high in carbon so if added alone they will be slow to be digested by the microbes in the compost pile. However, the green grass tends to be high in nitrogen, so mixing dry leaves and freshly mowed grass will give the composting microbes a well balanced diet. Mixes such as this may decompose very quickly and thus the compost pile may need to be turned regularly (every few days) until the interior temperature of the compost pile does not rise above about 110F. After a few weeks the compost can be used as a mulch or soil amendment in the garden, yard or landscape.
 

Other things to do in November.

• Chrysanthemums have put on a great display this fall. Once they have finished flowering, cut them back to one or two inches above the soil surface. This will help root development and make plants send out lots of vigorous sprouts in the spring. Plants for potting can be propagated from the side sprouts that will develop next May. Dispose of stems and all dropped and dried leaves and branches.
• While late winter is the ideal time for pruning grapevines, little harm will be done if plants are rough pruned in late November to provide some grapevine for use in wreath making. When pruning at this time of year it is best to leave more canes or longer canes than normal to account for possible winter injury later in the season. The vines can then be pruned more severely in late winter. If you find it difficult to shape the wreath, soak vines in water overnight for increased flexibility.
• Pine cones, sweet gum balls, and seed pods of many plants, such as redbud, locust, and milkweed, can also be used in winter crafts. Many of these items can be discovered as you walk along a fence row, or through a park or a weedy field.
• Common landscape trees and shrubs, such as hollies, magnolia, junipers, and pyracantha, can provide fresh material Thanksgiving and winter holiday decorations.
• Store pesticides in a frost-free location away from food and out of the reach of children. Store liquid pesticides where temperatures will not fall below 40F. Too low a temperature may result in a breakdown of the chemical. If the liquid should freeze, there is the danger of the glass container breaking and scattering the chemical in the storage area. If a pesticide is in a paper container, put the whole package in a plastic container and seal it. Be sure that all bottles and cans are tightly sealed and well labeled.