September 1, 1996, Carl was hired to join Joe Collins as a nursery inspector. Carl is also a graduate of the University of Kentucky, receiving a B.S. in Horticulture. Currently, Carl is working on a M.S. (non-thesis) in Horticultural Extension and should finish this May.
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Gypsy moth is a pest that should be of concern to everyone. As a caterpillar, it has a voracious appetite and has been known to completely defoliate forests. The caterpillars feed on about 500 different species of plants. The most preferred host is oak followed by apple, cherry, hawthorn, hickory, maples, sassafras, sweetgum and willow. Only the caterpillar stage feeds. When fully grown, the caterpillar is about 2 inches long, very hairy and have five pairs of blue dots followed by six pairs of red dots along its back. The larval stage lasts about seven weeks.
Gypsy moths are spread in two different ways. Natural spread occurs when newly hatched larvae are dispersed by blowing wind. Over the past 10-15 years, gypsy moths have moved long distances on outdoor household articles such as cars and recreational vehicles, firewood and other items. It has been estimated that 85% of new infestations have been through the movement of outdoor household articles.
Once established, gypsy moth numbers can fluctuate widely from year to year. Seasons with light damage can be followed by seasons with severe damage. In periods of heavy outbreaks, gypsy moth caterpillars crawl on walls, across roads, over outdoor furniture, and sometimes will come inside homes.
The gypsy moth has four different life stages: egg, caterpillar, pupa and adult moth. The female moth lays eggs in masses in sheltered areas. Each egg mass will contain between 500 and 1,000 eggs and will have a fuzzy tan appearance. The eggs will begin to hatch in early spring; this usually coincides with the budding of most hardwood trees.
While in the caterpillar stage, the gypsy moth might be confused with fall webworms or eastern tent caterpillars. However, while the latter two insects form webs, the gypsy moth does not. Eastern tent caterpillars appear in early spring and build their tents in the crotches of tree branches. The fall webworm appears in mid to late summer and builds its tents on the ends of branches. Eastern tent caterpillars are generally black with a white stripe down the back. They also will have blue spots on their sides that are located between two yellow lines. The fall webworm will be yellow to green, fuzzy, and will have twin pairs of black dots along its back.
There are several ways to control gypsy moth. In small populations, it may be easiest to destroy the egg masses. To do this, either crush the eggs or place in a bucket of soapy water. Be careful when handling the egg masses because the hairs that cover them may cause an allergic reaction.
Placing burlap around tree trunks provides an effective way to monitor populations. When numbers are low, the larvae and pupae under the burlap may be crushed.
If a large population of gypsy moths is found, an insecticide treatment may be needed. Several products are labeled for use against gypsy moth. These include the Bt products of Dipel and Thuricide along with several other insecticides.
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There are two generations each year so proper timing of treatments is essential for best results. The scale overwinters as a red egg underneath the white covering of the female. The eggs hatch in late April to early May and the mobile “crawler” stage of the first generation moves to feeding sites on the needles. The crawlers do not have a waxy protective covering and are the stage that is most susceptible to control measures. Once settled, the crawler remains in place and continues development to the adult stage. Crawlers of the second generation are active in mid- to late July.
Insecticidal soap, diazinon, Dursban (chlorpyrifos), malathion,), Merit (imidacloprid), Orthene (acephate), or Tempo (cyfluthrin) may be used to control the crawlers. Thorough spray coverage is needed for control. A dormant oil spray in late March or early April before the new growth develops also can be an effective control measure. Apply a dormant oil only when temperatures will not go below 40°F for 12 to 24 hours. Oil sensitive plants listed under the Precautions section of the label should not be treated.
It is important to remember that egg hatch can vary from year to year so careful examination of the needles must be done to be sure the crawlers are active. Use a hand lens to examine the needles carefully for these small insects.
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Flowering crabapple scab. Begin fungicide applications at green tip. For protectant fungicides such as chlorothalonil (Daconil ultrex) make a second spray just before bloom, a third at petal fall and in wet seasons, a fourth two weeks later. Systemic/eradicant fungicides such as thiophanate-methyl (Fungo Flo or Cleary’s 3336), or propiconazole (Banner) can be applied at green tip and at 14 day intervals until two weeks after petal fall. Other labeled products may also be available. Use scab resistant cultivars for new plantings.
Cedar apple rust. Apply propiconazol (Banner) at green tip, and again one week and two weeks later. Other labeled products may also be available. Use rust resistant cultivars.
Pine Diplodia tip blight. Spray with thiophanate-methyl (Fungo Flo, Cleary’s 3336) first at bud break, then as candles are beginning to elongate, and finally as needles are emerging from needle sheaths. There are some formulations of benomyl, but not Benlate, available for landscape use. Fixed copper or bordeaux mixture are cleared, but not as effective. Remember that infected cones, twigs, and branches should have been pruned the previous fall or winter.
Shade tree (ash, maple, sycamore) Anthracnose. Thiophanate-methyl (Fungo Flo, Cleary’s 3336), chlorothalonil (Daconil ultrex), maneb, fixed copper, or Bordeaux mixture can be used, if needed. Begin applications at bud break and repeat 2-3 times at 10-14 day intervals. Sprays are usually not needed, however, if the disease has been severe the previous season and cool, wet spring weather is expected, fungicides may help.
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Tall fescue varieties that are considered to be the best choices for Kentucky are listed below. This list is based on data and observations from our Spindletop Research Farm trials, other university research trials and, to a lesser extent, from commercial sources. With so many cultivars being tested and numerous new cultivars released annually, this listing will always be incomplete and changing, but it represents our best current assessment of tall fescue variety choices for Kentucky.
Brown patch, caused by Rhizoctonia fungi, is the most important factor limiting quality of tall fescue in many sites. All varieties are susceptible to this disease, including the varieties listed below,. However, these varieties differ somewhat in susceptibility to brown patch. Based upon numerous trials conducted in Kentucky and other states, brown patch susceptibility ratings were assigned to varieties and range from +++ (generally acceptable performance against brown patch) to + (erratic performance or more susceptible). No designation indicates that there are limited data available.
All of the varieties listed below have performed well under light to moderate brown patch pressure. However, the brown patch ratings provided should provide a guide to performance under severe disease pressure. Obviously those varieties that are most severely damaged by brown patch are not suited for Kentucky and would not be included in the list.
| Coarse Turf/Pasture | Medium Growth Turf Types |
| Ky 31 +++ | Adventure ++ |
| Apache +++ | |
| Semi-Dwarfs | Finelawn 5GL ++ |
| Bonanza II ++ | Jaguar |
| Crossfire +++ | Mustang |
| Duke ++ | Safari + |
| Duster ++ | |
| Falcon II ++ | Dwarfs |
| GEN 91 +++ | Crewcut |
| Jaguar 3 +++ | El Dorado + |
| Lancer + | Mini-Mustang |
| Lexus ++ | Shortstop |
| Pixie +++ | Silverado ++ |
| Montauk ++ | |
| Rebel Jr. + | |
| Rebel 3D + | |
| Tomahawk ++ |
| Boxwood psyllids | Eastern tent caterpillars |
| Yellow poplar weevils | Oystershell scale crawlers |
| Hawthorn lacebugs | Lilac/Ash borers |
| Honeylocust plant bugs | Pine adelgids, especially in tips of Alberta spruce |