You should start to see some activity from these insects during this month. Remember, monitoring is the best way to achieve good pest control.
| Powdery mildew | Fall webworm |
| Mimosa webworm | Spider mites |
| Euonymus scale crawlers | Bagworms |
| Japanese Beetles | Ash plant bugs |
| Red headed pine sawfly | Azalea lacebug |
| Japanese beetles | Borer-red maple liners | Cercospora leaf spot-Honeylocust |
| Bagworms | Red headed pine sawfly | Mimosa webworm-honeylocust |
| Fall webworm | Septoria leaf spot-River birch | Apple scab-crabapple |
| Powdery mildew-dogwoods | Hawthorn & quince rust | Aphids & spider mites-various plant spp. |
| Azalea lace bugs | Oak leaf blister | Bladder gall-maple & birch |
In the landscape, drought stress is causing wilt and dieback to many of the woody ornamentals damaged by late spring freezes and/or the extremely wet period we experienced during May and June. Numerous ornamental cherries are completely collapsing due to freeze injury. Also in tall fescue lawns, crown infections of brown patch were causing collapse of tillers without any evidence of the classic leaf lesions and foliar blighting. Also diagnosed in the landscape were bacterial spot of zinnia, southern blight of hosta, powdery mildew of dogwood, and Dutch elm disease on American elm.
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Needle infections by fungal pathogens can decrease the value of Christmas trees and landscape evergreens by causing needle discoloration, and more importantly, by causing defoliation. Severe needle drop not only decreases the tree value, but can result in poor tree health and vigor. Although most conifers are somewhat susceptible to needle diseases, certain varieties of Scots pines growing in locations favorable for disease may be severely affected. Needle diseases can be serious in shaded and crowded Kentucky landscapes as well as in Christmas tree plantations.
Scots pines are widely grown as Christmas trees. Three important needle blight and needle cast diseases can affect Scots pines in Kentucky Christmas tree plantings. Although most Christmas tree plantings are relatively free of needle diseases, some serious outbreaks have been observed. Because each disease is managed differently, it is important for growers to identify the problem correctly. Look for needle blight diseases in shaded parts of the planting, on lower branches, and on the north side of individual trees.
. Austrian, red and Scots pines sustain the greatest damage from needle cast caused by Lophodermium seditiosum, the causal fungus. In Christmas tree plantings, short needle strains of Scots pines with seed origins in France and Spain are damaged most. Virginia pines are also susceptible.
In late autumn, but more conspicuously in early spring, small brown sports with yellow halos appear on the current year’s needles. Needles turn yellow, then brown, and are shed throughout the summer. By late summer, only tufts of green current-season’s needles may be left. Spores of the causal fungus are produced in tiny, black football-shaped structures in infected needles, are spread by wind and infect current needles during moist periods from August to October. Infected needle symptoms are seen the following late fall or early spring. Where the fungus is active, a period of cool moist weather in the late summer and early fall can lead to a destructive outbreak.
Needle cast disease reduces photosynthetic capability and reduces growth in small trees. Twigs that bear only diseased needles may wither in early spring, and buds that survive produce abnormally small shoots and needles. Thus the Christmas trees may be stunted and disfigured.
. This disease is caused by Mycosphaerella dearnessii, a fungus once known as Scirrhia acicola. Needle browning and defoliation of Scots pines due to brown spot is most common, but Austrian, loblolly, mugo, pitch, red, shortleaf, Virginia and eastern white pines are also susceptible.
In late summer, small, dark spots becoming brown with yellow halos appear on current-season’s needles. By fall, needles may be resin soaked, turn brown and begin to drop from the tree, with most needle shedding occurring the following spring. Dark, oval fruiting bodies are found on the needles, and during late spring and early summer, spores of the causal fungus initiate new infections. Infections occur readily and the disease is spread most rapidly during periods of warm, wet weather.
On pines with dense foliage, infection is most common on low branches, leaving bare branches through the winter if infections have been severe. If these branches live, they produce new foliage in spring which may become infected the next season. Light infections may only accelerate the loss of second and third-year needles. Infected trees are not valued as Christmas trees. Naemacyclus Needle Cast. Scots pines grown for Christmas trees are very susceptible to this needle cast; Austrian, mugo, Virginia and eastern white pine are also hosts. The causal fungus is Cyclaneusma minus, formerly referred to as Naemacyclus.
Needle cast disease symptoms begin to appear the year following infection. In late summer and fall, light green spots may be found on second and third year needles. Needles soon turn yellow, having dark brown horizontal bands, then turn brown and drop from the tree throughout the fall, winter, and spring. The causal fungus produces tiny, elongate, protruding, tan colored fruiting bodies in the dead needles. These structures yield spores that initiate infections primarily from April to June but also at low levels throughout the summer and fall. This disease is favored by mild, rainy weather during spring and summer.
Premature yellow and casting of second and third year needles reduces the value of infected trees as Christmas trees. Severely diseased trees appear yellow before needles fall. Current season’s needles show no symptoms and are retained, even though infected; in severe cases the first year needles may be all that are left. Such trees are of little value as Christmas trees.
Cut and remove severely infected trees. 2) Remove and destroy live, infected branches on stumps of harvested trees. 3) Shear healthy plantations first to prevent movement of fungal spores to healthy trees. 4) Remove weeds from the plantation to promote better air movement. 5) remove old Scots pine windbreaks.
Apply fungicides, if needed. Fungicide use may be warranted on some highly susceptible, short needled Scots pine types growing in moist locations. Often, only pockets of trees in shaded or north slope sites need preventative fungicides. During disease susceptible periods, apply sprays at 2-3 week intervals. See below for fungicides and application timing: Lophodermium needle cast: Bordeaux mixture, chlorothalonil, maneb. Mid-July through October. Brown spot needle blight: Bordeaux mixture, chlorothalonil. Mid-April through June. Naemacyclus needle cast: Benomyl, chlorothalonil, maneb. Mid April through June and possibly through October during rainy seasons.
Two fungi may cause important losses in young Douglas-fir plantations. Both cause needle cast and the trees sustain damage due to defoliation. Neither affects pine. Rabdocline Needle Cast Disease, caused by the fungus Rabdocline pseudotsugae, begins from infections occurring during cool, moist periods in spring. By late summer, infected first year needles begin to show some yellowing followed by conspicuous brown banding by late fall or early spring. Needles may begin dropping in winter, and continue falling the next season. Eventually, during the summer, the tree may be missing most of the previous year’s needles.
This disease is often adequately controlled by improving ventilation and air movement around the base of the tree. Weed removal, improved spacing and removing diseased lower branches and trees will help. Fungicide sprays containing maneb or chlorothalonil can be applied in spring when buds first begin to swell. Continue applications every 7-10 days for about a month. Swiss Needle Cast Disease, caused by the fungus Phaeocryptopus gaeumanii, begins from infections that occur during rainy periods in spring and early summer. The infected needles may remain green for one or several years, producing spores from inconspicuous black fruiting bodies on the needle undersides. The diseased needles eventually turn yellow, then brown, and the oldest needles begin falling. Begin fungicide applications for disease control in late spring when the new shoots are 1/2 to 2 inches long, and continue them into early summer if the weather is rainy. Sprays containing chlorothalonil or maneb should be effective.
The fungus Rhizosphaera kalkhoffii causes significant defoliation of spruces in landscapes and Christmas tree plantations. Rhizosphaera needle cast is characterized by tiny fuzzy black fungal fruiting bodies emerging from the surface of infected green and yellowing needles. Diseased needles turn brown or purplish brown a few months to a year after infection.
Infections occur during wet weather throughout the spring and early summer. Thus the fungicide chlorothalonil, applied for disease control, is used during this time. Colorado spruces are very susceptible to Rhizosphaera needle cast. Most other spruces are also susceptible, and even Douglas-fir, and Austrian, mugo and white pines may become infected.
Needle rusts can affect Austrian, Scots, Virginia, loblolly, mugo and red pines in Kentucky. The most distinctive feature of these diseases are the conspicuous white to orange blister-like sack shaped fungal structures on the infected needles in spring. Needle rusts may occasionally destroy enough foliage to slow the growth of small trees, but normally they do little damage. The most common needle rust is caused by the fungus Coleosporium asterum. This fungus lives on pine for part of its life, and for the rest, on aster, goldenrod and some other composites. Destroying these alternate host plants will break the life cycle of the fungus and thus control the disease.
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White grubs, which are immature stages of beetles, are the major pests of grasses in Kentucky. Turf is damaged when the grubs feed on the grass roots. The root injury reduces the turf’s ability to withstand the typically hot, dry weather of late summer. While several kinds of white grubs, including green June beetles, May beetles and Japanese beetles, can cause this damage, masked chafer grubs are the most common cause of turf injury.
All of these grubs have stout, grayish to white bodies with brown heads. When mature, they are 1/2 inch to 2 inches long. Most species are curled into a C-shape when at rest, but green June beetle grubs are more straight-bodied and have the curious habit of crawling along on their backs.
As white grubs chew off the roots, grass cannot take up enough water to withstand stress. As a result, irregular dead patches, often 5-20 feet in diameter, develop in grub-infested areas. The sod in these dead patches is not well-anchored to the soil and may be rolled back like a carpet to expose the grubs. If the damage is allowed to develop to this stage, it is usually too late to save the turf. Early recognition of the problem can prevent this destruction.
Japanese beetles are green June beetles are day-time fliers that feed on leaves, flowers and fruit of various plants. May beetles and masked chafers are active at night and are attracted to lights. Masked chafers do not feed, but may beetles sometimes defoliate pin oaks and other plants at night. During July, masked chafers may swarm a foot or so over the turf at dusk.
To determine the degree of white grub infestation, sample the turf in several spots. In each area, cut out a square-foot piece of sod, and inspect the roots closely for grubs. If sampling is done during the early stages of infestation, the grubs will be small and not as easily found as when the grubs have noticeably damaged the sod. An average of seven grubs per sample may indicate a need for an insecticide treatment. In some situations much higher grub populations can be tolerated.
Rainfall and soil moisture apparently are the main factors that determine the extent of grub damage during a season. Masked chafer eggs absorb moisture from the surrounding soil, and eggs laid in dry soil die in just a few days. Irrigation of turf areas will increase egg survival, sometimes resulting in larger grub numbers than would occur in non-irrigated areas. In dry years, large numbers of beetles commonly congregate on irrigated turf, while nearby unwatered turf may be ignored.
Adequate rainfall during the time when grubs are actively feeding can help hide root injury. Irrigated turf may be able to tolerate 15-20 grubs per square foot before showing damage. Studies suggest that at least 9 or 10 grubs per square foot are required to cause noticeable injury. Chemical Control Chemical control may be necessary if natural and cultural control practices are insufficient at stopping turf damage. Certain insecticides that protected against white grubs for longer than one season have been banned because of their hazard to the environment. Turcam, Dursban, Merit, Mach II, Oftanol, and Sevin are chemicals that are labeled for control of white grubs.
The best time to apply an insecticide to control white grubs is early- to mid-August when grubs are still small and their feeding damage is relatively light. Although a spring treatment will kill grubs that are present, the practice is rarely justified. White grubs seldom cause much damage in the spring unless the turf is particularly droughty or was seeded the previous fall. Killing grubs in the spring affords no protection from reinfestation by beetles flying in from other areas later in the season.
For best results with insecticides, immediately water the turf to wash the insecticide down into the soil where the grubs are feeding. This is especially important for spray applications; if these dry on the foliage, they cannot be washed in by later drenchings. For this reason, granular insecticides may be easier to use since timing of irrigation is not so critical.
Irrigation also brings the grubs up to the surface where they are easier to kill. If possible, apply the insecticides just before a good rain.
Most failures are due to improper application, but occasionally the insecticide may be at fault. Insecticide products kept from year to year lose their potency, especially if they are stored at low temperatures. High alkaline water used for soaking or preparing sprays also tends to neutralize insecticides.
More often, poor control results from not completely soaking the insecticide into the soil immediately after application. If spray treatments are allowed to dry on grass foliage before being watered, a thorough soaking later will not wash enough insecticide into the soil to do the job.
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The warm humid conditions and abundant food in the greenhouse are ideal for pest build up. Problems can be chronic unless recognized and corrected. While insecticides are important tools, successful control of greenhouse ornamental pests relies primarily on cultural factors. Proper cultural practices can minimize the chance for initiation and build up of infestations. Early detection and diagnosis are key to greenhouse pest management, as well as, the proper choice and application of pesticides when pest outbreaks occur.
Pests may enter the greenhouse in the summer when the ventilators are open. Others may be brought into the greenhouse on new plant material or in soil. Many are able to survive short periods of time between harvest or plant removal and production of the next crop. Cultural controls are the primary defense against infestation.
Proper cultural practices which will help prevent pest infestations include: maintain a clean, closely mowed area around the greenhouse to reduce pests that develop in rank growth. Remove all plants and any plant debris, clean the greenhouse thoroughly after each production cycle. Keep doors, screens and ventilators in good repair. Use clean or sterile soils or ground media, tools, flats and other equipment. At the conclusion of the season remove all plants and any plant debris, clean greenhouse thoroughly and fumigate.
Inspect new plants thoroughly to prevent introduction insect or disease infested material into the greenhouse. Watch for leaks or pooled water that can lead to fungus gnat infestations. If possible allow the greenhouse to freeze in winter to eliminate tender insects like whiteflies. Avoid wearing yellow clothing which is attractive to many insect pests which can be carried into the greenhouse from outside. Eliminate infestations by discarding or removing heavily infested material.
Early detection and diagnosis of pest infestations will allow you to make pest control decisions before the problem gets out of hand. It is good practice, therefore, to make weekly inspections of plants in all sections of the greenhouse.
Insect monitoring devices are also available. Yellow sticky cards (PT Insect Monitoring & Trapping System, Whitmire) are highly attractive to winged aphids, leafminer adults, whiteflies, leafhoppers, thrips (blue cards can also be used with thrips), various flies and other insects. These can be used to alert you to the presence of a pest and identify hot spots in the greenhouse. One to three cards per 1000 sq. ft. in the greenhouse is recommended and should be changed weekly. If you cannot identify a trapped insect, contact your county extension agent for assistance. Mass trapping products such as sticky tapes are also available for thrips, whitefly, leafminer and fungus gnat detection and management.
Many of the most serious greenhouse pests tend to be small insects (or mites) with short life cycles and high birth rates. This includes spider mites, aphids, whiteflies and thrips. Development of insecticide resistance is a potential problem with these pests. Susceptible individuals in a pest population are wiped out when chemicals with the same mode of action are applied repeatedly. The proportion of resistant individuals in a population increases and they become more difficult to control. Unfortunately, a grower may increase usage of the pesticide in response to this until it no longer provides control.
As a greenhouse manager, there are several tactics to prevent, delay or reduce insecticide resistance. Countermeasures include reducing the frequency or extent of insecticide treatments, reducing the use of insecticides with long residual action, avoiding treatments which act upon both larva and adults, and including nonchemical methods of biological and cultural control into an integrated pest management program.
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The adult male gypsy moth has begun to fly and already the traps placed in the state are showing positive catches. Thus far, moths have been captured in Boyd, Fleming, Grant, Greenup, Harrison, Kenton, Lawrence, Madison and Montgomery counties. So far, there has not been any indications of gypsy moth in the area of the state west of I-65.
In most of the counties, only a few moths have been caught. This probably is the result of moths being accidentally transported into those areas from infested states. However, in Greenup county, 22 moths have been caught. What this possibly means is small infestations of gypsy moth may have become established in the area. This has also happened in Madison county where eight moths have been caught. In the coming years, these areas will be mass trapped in an effort to get rid of the moths. This is a practice that has worked well in other parts of the state when low-level infestations have been detected.
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| Cultivar | Scab | Fireblight | Cedar Rust | Mildew | Leaf Spot |
| 'Adams' | E | G | E | G | G |
| baccata 'Jackii' | E | E | E | E | G |
| 'Beverly' | E | G | E | E | E |
| 'Bob White' | E | E | G | E | G |
| 'Candied Apple' | E | G | E | E | G |
| 'Christmas Holly' | E | E | E | E | G |
| 'David' | E | G | G | E | G |
| 'Dolgo' | G | G | E | E | F |
| 'Donald Wyman' floribunda | E | E | E | E | G |
| floribunda | E | F | G | E | E |
| halliana 'Parkmanii' | E | F | F | G | E |
| 'Harvest Gold' | G | F | E | E | E |
| 'Henningii' | E | G | E | E | G |
| 'Hopa' | P | G | F | E | G |
| hupehensis | E | P | E | G | |
| 'Indian Magic' | F | G | E | E | E |
| 'Jewelberry' | E | G | G | G | G |
| 'Liset' | E | G | E | G | E |
| 'Mary Potter' | G | G | E | G | E |
| ‘Molten Lava' | E | G | E | G | E |
| 'Ormiston Roy' | E | G | G | G | E |
| 'Professor Sprenger' | E | G | E | E | F |
| 'Profusion' | E | G | G | E | E |
| 'Radiant' | P | G | E | G | E |
| 'Ralph Shay' | E | G | P | E | F |
| 'Red Barron' | G | G | E | G | F |
| 'Red Jade' | E | F | E | G | G |
| 'Red Jewel' | E | G | G | G | G |
| 'Red Splendor' | G | G | E | E | G |
| 'Robinson' | E | E | E | E | G |
| 'Royalty' | F | G | E | E | G |
| 'Ruby Luster' | F | G | E | G | G |
| sargentii | G | G | E | E | G |
| 'Selkirk' | E | G | E | G | F |
| 'Sentinel'' | E | E | E | E | E |
| 'Silver Moon' | E | G | E | E | E |
| 'Snowdrift' | G | P | G | E | G |
| 'Strawberry Parfait' | E | E | G | E | G |
| 'Sugar Tyme' | E | G | G | E | E |
| 'Tschonoskii' | E | E | E | F | P |
| 'Velvet Pillar' | G | G | E | E | G |
| 'White Angel' | E | E | G | E | G |
| 'White Cascade' | G | G | E | E | G |
| 'Winter Gold' | E | G | E | G | E |
| hunnanensis 'Veitchii' | E | E | E | G | G |
| zumi 'Calocarpa' | E | G | E | E | G |