The 32nd Annual UK Pest Control Short Course will
be held September 24 - 26, 2002.
Detailed information is available on the web at:
http://www.uky.edu/Agriculture/PAT/welcome.htm .
This will be the last weekly issue of the Kentucky Pest
News for 2002. The newsletter will be published on an
alternate week basis during the fall and winter.
Storing corn through the last of the summer months in the
south can be a very difficult task. Yet the ability to hold
this crop past harvest delivery or to meet contract delivery
is certainly a plus for many grain farmers. As difficult as
this task may be, performing a few simple (note necessarily
easy) procedures to get the bins ready to receive the corn
can make a major impact on the storability of the crop.
To aid in your efforts we have provided below a "Check list" of those chores that are most likely to provide direct contribution to the storage of high quality corn. Though many of the tasks may seem simple minded, they are recognized over and over by corn storage professionals as fundamental, and sound management techniques.
Virtually without exception, preventing insect infestations in stored corn is more economically viable than cleaning them up!
Take a look at this list and consider adding it to your management system.
UK-IPM Pre-Harvest Checklist for Controlling Insects in Stored Corn (August 2002)
by Doug Johnson, Extension Entomologist and Sam McNeill, Extension Agricultural Engineer UK
Before Harvest
If possible hire a commercial fumigator. Restricted use pesticide certification is required for purchasing the fumigants. Specialized training from a commercial applicator is strongly recommended. Specialized equipment, including gas masks, self-contained breathing apparatus, and fumigant gas detection equipment is required for safe, effective and economical applications. Obtain and read the product label and manufactures instructions.
Insecticides and Fumigants Recommended for Corn
See: ENT- Insecticide Recommendations for Corn.
Empty bins - applied to walls and floor: Tempo DO NOT APPLY TO GRAIN!
Under Floor Fumigants - Chloro-pic , (Can not currently be shipped, you will only find it if your local dealer has some on hand.) Methyl-Bromide, Phostoxin,/Fumtoxin.
For more information about stored corn pests, visit "Insect Management Recommendations".
Low germination percentages for wheat seed harvested in
Kentucky is not a universal problem, but, based on results
from the UK Seed Testing Laboratory, low germination seed
is fairly widespread at this time.
Germination results from the UK Seed Testing Laboratory indicate that 37% of the 221 samples submitted had a germination rate of 80% or lower. Seventeen percent of the samples had germs of 70% or lower. Slightly under seven percent of the samples had rates of 60% and lower. As a reference point, certified seed is required to have a germination rate greater than 85%. This gives you some idea of the overall situation.
Fusarium head blight (head scab) symptoms were moderate statewide in 2002, but it appears as though late season moisture resulted in significant seed infection by Fusarium on some farms. Dr. Dennis Tekrony has been testing some fairly good looking, rather high test weight (57-60 lbs/bu) seed for us, and Fusarium infections are in the 40-70% range.
Some seed producers have submitted split samples of fungicide-treated (50/50 Raxil/Thiram) and non-treated seed. The results are encouraging. Most of the non-treated seed had germs in the low 60's to mid 70's, and treatment brought them up to the high 80s to mid-90s. Overall, average germ of non-treated seed was 77.4%. Treatment increased the average germination to 92.2%. The germination of one seed lot was bumped from 62% to 94%. This information suggests that dead seed is not an issue. Dead seed is unaffected by seed treatment, well.....because it is dead!
Data clearly indicate that most seed lots with a low germ should respond favorably to cleaning, followed by treatment with one of the new generation seed treatment fungicides. The saved seed "industry" is at greatest risk because farmers frequently plant non-treated seed. However, a large percentage of commercial seed sold and planted in Kentucky is treated with a fungicide.
The main purpose of this article is to give you a "head's up" that wheat seed quality is not uniformly good this season.
After the grape harvest, growers often put away their spray
equipment, assuming that disease management tasks are
finished for the season. Growers need to be aware that
there are two diseases, downy mildew and powdery
mildew, that can take their toll on next year's crop if not
controlled for the rest of this season.
Downy mildew. This important disease is present now in many Kentucky vineyards. The fungus causes yield losses resulting from premature defoliation of vines due to leaf and shoot infections, including those that occur after harvest. Premature defoliation is a serious problem because it predisposes the vine to winter injury. In general, vinifera (Vitis vinifera) varieties are much more susceptible than American types and the French hybrids are somewhat intermediate in susceptibility. Highly susceptible cultivars include Catawba, Chancellor, Chardonnay, Delaware, Fredonia, Ives, Niagara, White Riesling, and Rougeon.
Early in the season, infected leaves develop yellowish-green lesions on their upper surfaces and on the underside of the leaves, the fungus sporulates by forming sporangia on numerous branched structures, called sporangiophores, that protrude through stomata. This gives the lesion surface on the leaf underside its characteristic white, downy appearance. Severely infected leaves may curl and drop from the vine. The disease attacks older leaves in late summer and autumn, producing a mosaic of small, angular, yellow to red-brown spots on the upper leaf surface. Lesions commonly form along leaf veins and the fungus sporulates in these areas on the lower leaf surface.
Powdery mildew. If not controlled on susceptible cultivars, this disease can reduce vine growth, yield, quality, and winter hardiness. Cultivars of Vitis vinifera and its hybrids (French hybrids) are generally much more susceptible to powdery mildew than are native American varieties such as Concord.
The fungal conidia and mycelia give a powdery or dusty appearance to infected plant parts. Leaves remain susceptible throughout the season. Therefore, a full season fungicide program is generally required for powdery mildew control on susceptible varieties. Leaf wetness is not required for powdery mildew infection; atmospheric moisture consisting of 40 to 100% relative humidity is sufficient for germination of conidia and infection. This is in contrast to downy mildew, that requires free water on the plant surface before the spores can germinate and infect. Thus, powdery mildew can be a serious problem during growing seasons when it is too dry for other diseases such as black rot or downy mildew to develop. Thick canopies that retain high levels of relative humidity are highly conducive to infections.
Disease management. In some years downy and powdery mildews cause post-harvest defoliation well before the onset of cool weather in the fall. Post-harvest early defoliation predisposes the vines to winter injury and reduces fruit set the following season. Thus it is important to maintain protection against foliar infections by these fungi. Rates and suggestions of fungicides to use are found in U.K. Cooperative Extension publication ID-94, Kentucky Commercial Small Fruit and Grape Spray Guide 2002, available at Kentucky county extension offices.
Red flecking on the fruit at harvest are an indication of San
Jose scale infestations in the orchard. The red spots on the
fruit are particularly noticeable on green and yellow
varieties. It is a sucking insect that injects a toxin into the
plant as it feeds causing localized discolorations. Left
uncontrolled, San Jose scale can kill the entire tree in a
couple years.
Control of San Jose Scale in apples begins with a thorough application of a dormant oil spray in late winter followed by a late spring insecticide spray aimed at the immature crawler stage. Sprays directed against crawlers also protect fruit from infestation. Sprays should be timed about one week after the first crawlers are seen. If populations are heavy, a second application two weeks after the first should be used. These applications aimed at the crawlers have little effect on the adult scales. Because San Jose Scale occur on all parts of the tree, spray coverage with the dormant oil application and crawler sprays are critical for effective control. Although there is a second generation later in the summer, but sprays are seldom used to control this generation.
Snow in August? That's what an infestation of woolly
apple aphid can appear like on an apple tree. It is a
sucking insect pest that weakens the tree by feeding on
limbs and roots. It gets its name from the woolly
appearance of its colonies. Long strands of white wax are
produced that help to protect the colony of purple aphids.
Wooly apple aphid can be a serious pest of apples, particularly young trees. Colonies form at wound sites on trunks, limbs, and twigs, where they feed on tender bark. Pruning, hail or periodical cicada damage can create the wound sites for attack by this pest. As populations grow, aphids can be found on water sprouts in the center of the tree. The tree will begin to swell and form galls at the feeding sites.
In addition to feeding on small branches and wounds, woolly apple aphid may be found year-round on roots where they often go unnoticed. Mature trees usually suffer little damage. Yellowish foliage is a sign that woolly apple aphid may be infesting roots. The root systems of nursery stock can be damaged, and severe root infestations can stunt or kill young trees. Infested trees often have short fibrous roots, which predisposes them to being easily uprooted. Swollen galls also form on roots; galls increase in size from year to year and are sites where fungi can attack. Aphid feeding on the root systems also disrupts the nutrient balance of root tissue, which can affect growth of other parts of the tree. The underground form of woolly apple aphid is more damaging than the above-ground form. Trees can have above-ground infestations of woolly apple aphid but no root infestations. Rootstocks appearing more susceptible to woolly apple aphid infestation include B9, M9, M26 and the P series.
Woolly apple aphid colonies produce honeydew, which results in development of black sooty mold. The wax and the honeydew also can bother pickers when it brushes off the tree and onto clothing of pickers.
There are few insecticides specifically labeled for control of woolly apple aphid. Thiodan and dimethoate are recommended for control of above-ground infestations. There are no insecticides to control root infestations on bearing apple trees.
Last week, pepper maggot was found attacking peppers in
two central Kentucky pepper fields. In each location, nearly
a dozen damaged peppers were found to have pepper
maggot. These are the first records of this pest in Kentucky.
Pepper maggot is a sporadic pest of peppers along the
Atlantic coast, Indiana, and Missouri. Like European corn
borer, pepper maggot feeds inside the fruit tunneling
underneath the cap. While European corn borer does leave
some evidence on the outside of the fruit, pepper maggot
leaves little evidence on the outside other than a small
dimple where the female fly deposited her egg in the flesh of
the fruit. At harvest, the cap of the infested peppers often
separates from the pod as a result of the tunneling damage.
Small fly maggots are commonly found feeding on decaying material in rotting peppers. But the pepper maggot is different. The is a relatively large maggot, nearly a half inch in length, feeds on otherwise sound fruit. When mature, the larvae is light yellow in color. The body is pointed near the head end and blunt toward the rear. After feeding on the pepper for two to three weeks, the maggot drop to the soil, and pupate two to four inches below ground. Adults begin to emerge from the soil the following year in early summer through mid-August. The adult pepper maggot is a brightly colored fly with a pale yellow head, green eyes, honey colored thorax, pale yellow abdomen and clear wings with brown bands. There is only one generation per year.
As with many disease problems of peppers, sanitation and rotation are used to control pepper maggot. Adult flies are attracted to rotting peppers, so removal of rotting fruit from fields reduces the attractiveness of fields to egg laying flies. Destroy infested fruit and cull piles as they serve as reservoirs for future infestations. Another cultural control is rotation. When possible, do not plant peppers in or near fields with a history of maggot infestation.
Yellow sticky cards can be used to monitor for pepper
maggot adult activity. Traps should be placed around the
margins of fields and observed weekly. In other states
where pepper maggot has been a problem, sprays are
applied when the flies are detected on the traps and
reapplied weekly while the flies remain active. Mustang 1.5
and Thiodan are recommended for control of pepper
maggot flies. These must be applied prior to egg laying to
be effective.
During the past decade, a disease causing yellowing and
sudden decline of cucurbit vines has been recognized
mainly in the south central states. It has been named
Cucurbit Yellow Vine Decline (Disease). The disease was
initially reported from Texas and Oklahoma but other
states in the south and midwest have reported it too, once
diagnostic protocols had been established. Recently,
Cucurbit Yellow Vine Decline (CYVD) was confirmed from
several locations in Kentucky on squash, pumpkin,
watermelon, and muskmelon.
It is important to appreciate that this is a newly diagnosed disease in Kentucky, rather than a new disease. Since 1993, we have observed plants with CYVD in Kentucky, sometimes causing heavy losses, but were unable to confirm CYVD as definitive diagnostic protocols were not available. In part, the complications came from the complex of root, stem, vascular, and viral diseases that are often involved in the same plantings, especially those that move in on the root systems as the plants decline. Thanks to persistent researchers from the USDA-ARS in Oklahoma, Texas AM, and Oklahoma State University, the techniques became available late last summer to satisfy the rules of proof necessary to make a definitive diagnosis. We used their techniques in making the diagnosis in our laboratories, plus had confirmation from the laboratory of Dr. Benny Bruton, USDA-ARS, Lane, Oklahoma - a leading lab in uncovering CYVD.
Symptoms of CYVD are variable depending on plant species involved, age of plant at the time of infection, and probably other factors. They include the following: Some plants show considerable stunting and yellowing (probably those infected early), while young fast growing plants (that probably become infected later) may suddenly collapse without yellowing. Other plants apparently infected later develop striking yellow vines and decline slowly as the fruit approach maturity. In watermelon, we notice that the terminals of runners tend to become more vertical (stand up) with rolled leaves. To diagnose the disease, select plants with the above symptoms and make cross-sectional cuts into the phloem tissues in the primary root and crown, looking for the development of a distinct golden to honey- brown discoloration of the phloem. The roots and lower stems of such plants are quickly colonized by a number of microbes that help finish the kill, and these secondary invaders will complicate the diagnostic efforts. The phloem tissues in a cross sectional cut in the lower stem appear just inside the outer layer of the stem as a series of arcs, wedges, or continuous zone (depending on age of tissue) that cap the xylem ( the woody tissue with the large pores). Healthy phloem should be translucent to green, rather than yellow to browning.
It is now known that the causal agent is a phloem-limited bacterium, Serratia marcescens, and it appears to survive in, and be vectored into the cucurbit plants, by the squash bug, Anasa tristis. Effective controls have not been fully formulated, but it is anticipated that controls will be focused on controlling the vector until host-plant resistance is found and incorporated into acceptable varieties.
Growers needing assistance in diagnosis of this problem, need to submit plants in the yellowing stage (with roots and vines still attached) through their local county extension office, where they will be forwarded to the appropriate plant disease diagnostic lab. Diagnosis soon after symptoms appear is critical as a number of other root and stem pathogens move in to confuse the diagnosis.
The bacterium Serratia marcescens has been found associated with a large number of habitats in nature - water, soil, plants (dicots and monocots, herbaceous and woody), insects, animals, and humans including being pathogens of humans. Work done so far with the strains isolated from Cucurbits indicate that they are physiologically different from the strains found in other plant species and other habitats.
White grubs are the most important insect pests of lawn
grasses in Kentucky. Several different kinds of white grubs,
in particular, the larvae of masked chafers and Japanese
beetles can cause damage to turf when the grubs feed on the
grass roots. Grub damage is showing up on lawns and golf
courses early this year, owing to drought and very warm
spring and summer temperatures.
Drought stressed or diseased turf can easily be mistaken for grub damage. Early symptoms of white grubs include gradual thinning, yellowing, and weakening of the grass stand followed by the appearance of scattered, irregular dead patches. As damage continues, the dead patches may increase in size, and apparently healthy turf areas may suddenly wilt. Sod that is heavily grub-damaged is not well anchored and can be pulled loose from the soil like a carpet, exposing the white, C-shaped larvae. If the brown patches do not pull up easily, the problem is usually related to other causes. Another indication that white grubs may be present is if moles, skunks or flocks of blackbirds find the turf attractive. White grubs should also be suspected if adult beetles were abundant in the area in June and July, or if you had a serious grub problem last year.
Control -- It is getting too late for imidacloprid (Merit ) or halofenozide (Mach® 2 or Scott's Grub-Ex® ), as both of these insecticides are best applied preventively, before egg hatch. If damage shows up, the options for rescue treatments are trichlorfon (Dylox® ) or Sevin. Sevin kills earthworms, which can aggravate thatch, so trichlorfon is probably a better choice, especially for home lawns. Normally the entire lawn will not need to be treated. Grub "hot spots," which can be confirmed by sampling, are most likely to be in full sun, lawns seeded with Kentucky bluegrass, lawns that were heavily irrigated during June and July, and turf areas that were damaged by grubs in previous years.
For best results, mow the lawn and rake out dead grass and thatch before treatment. Water the lawn immediately after application to wash the insecticide down into the root zone where the grubs are feeding. Watering in is especially important for spray applications; once spray residues dry on foliage, they cannot be washed into the root zone by later drenchings. For this reason, granular formulations may be easier to use since timing of irrigation is not so critical. Treated areas should be drenched with 1/2 - 1 inch of water, using a lawn sprinkler. The required amount of water can be determined by placing a disposable pan or rain gauge in the treated area.
For more information on white grubs, consult the publications ENT-10, Controlling White Grubs In Turfgrass, and Entfact- 441, Insecticides for Control of White Grubs in Kentucky Turfgrass.
Velvet ants, also known as "cowkillers" are large and furry
like a bumble bee, but are marked with red and black or
orange and black. Actually they are a type of wasp with a
very long stinger and a potent venom. The "cowkiller"
name refers to the pain of a sting.
Velvet ants can be seen running around in the yard during late summer. They are parasites of bees and wasps that nest in the ground. Velvet ants prefer bare areas in sandy soil where their prey are most likely to be found. There is no effective control measure for them. If they are particularly abundant in an area, it may be helpful in the long run to overseed to get a better grass cover. This would discourage the ground nesting bees and wasps on which velvet ants feed.
Orange-striped oakworms are black caterpillars with eight
narrow yellow stripes that run the length of the body.
There are a pair of curved "horns" behind the head. Small
larvae feed in groups and skeletonize the leaves, older
larvae eat all of the leaf except the main veins.
They usually destroy all of the leaves on a branch before
moving to a new feeding site. Infestations usually start in
the top of the tree and the larvae move down as they feed
and destroy foliage. Sprays of B-t (Bacillus thuringiensis -
Dipel, etc.) will control these insects. B-t works as a stomach
poison so treated leaves must be eaten. Direct spraying of
the caterpillars will not kill them.
Fall webworms feed on almost all shade, fruit and ornamental trees except evergreens. In Kentucky some of the preferred trees include American elm, maples, hickory, and sweetgum. They always place their tent on the end of branches and there is usually more than one generation each year.
Fall webworms are about one inch long, very hairy, and is pale green or yellow. They may have either a red or black head. The black-headed larvae have black spots along the back while the redheaded have orange to reddish spots. The black-headed larvae will create a flimsy web while the redheaded larvae make a larger, more dense web.
The first generation of caterpillars start to feed sometime in mid-spring to early summer. After feeding, they pupate in the soil and a second generation of webworms will be observed during August or September. The second generation of webworms usually causes more defoliation than the first generation.
Several species of our giant caterpillars are reaching maturity now and leaving trees to find a protected place where they can spin a cocoon and pupate. Most are striking because of their size and the ornate barbs, horns, or spines on their body. Pictures to help with identification can be found at http://www.uky.edu/Agriculture/Entomology/entfacts/misc/ef008.htm.
Numerous calls are received each year about spiders.
Typically, the caller wants to know if the spider they've
seen is dangerous, and what if anything should be
done in terms of control.
Many different kinds of spiders live in and around buildings. Some, such as the house, cellar, and garden spiders, construct webs to help entrap their prey. Others, like the wolf spiders, are free-roaming and make no webs. The vast majority of spiders are harmless, and in fact are beneficial because they prey upon flies, crickets and other insects. They generally will not attempt to bite humans unless held or accidentally trapped. Moreover, the majority of spiders have fangs too small or weak to puncture human skin. Of the hundreds of species found in Kentucky, only the black widow and brown recluse are dangerous. Fortunately, both are relatively uncommon, and have markings that can be used to distinguish them from other non-threatening species.
Even though most spiders are harmless, few people are willing to tolerate them inside the home. Their unsightly webbing and fecal spots outweigh the beneficial aspects of spiders to most homeowners. This column provides practical tips on spider control for concerned clients.
General Control Measures (all species)
1. Routine, thorough house cleaning is the most effective
way to eliminate spiders and discourage their return. A
vacuum cleaner and broom are the householder's most
useful tools for removing spiders, webs, and egg sacs. Egg
sacs in particular should be removed since each may yield
hundreds of new spiders.
2. Spiders prefer quiet, undisturbed areas such as closets, garages, basements, and attics. Reducing clutter in these areas makes them less attractive to spiders.
3. Large numbers of spiders often congregate outdoors around the perimeter of structures. Moving firewood, building materials, and debris away from the foundation can reduce migration indoors. Shrubs, vines and tree limbs should be clipped back from the side of the building. Maintaining a vegetation-free zone next to the house also lowers the moisture content of the foundation and siding, making them less attractive to termites, carpenter ants, rodents and decay.
4. Install tight-fitting window screens and door sweeps to exclude spiders and other insects. Inspect and clean behind window shutters, and inside the orifices of gas barbecue grills.
5. Consider installing yellow or sodium vapor light bulbs at outside entrances. These lights are less attractive than incandescent bulbs to night-flying insects, which, in turn, attract spiders.
6. To further reduce spider entry from outdoors, insecticides can be applied as a "barrier treatment" around the base of the foundation. Pay particular attention to door thresholds, garage and crawl space entrances, and foundation vents. Pyrethroid insecticides (e.g., Spectracide Triazicide (lambda cyhalothrin), Bayer Advanced Multi-Insect Killer (cyfluthrin), Ortho Home Defense System (bifenthrin)) are most effective, but may need to be reapplied periodically throughout the summer.
Brown Recluse/Black Widow
Both of these spiders are potential health threats. They are
timid, however, and will only bite in response to the threat
of being injured. Most bites occur while putting on a shoe or
piece of clothing in which a spider has hidden, or while
unpacking boxes, sorting through clutter, etc.
The female black widow is about 1/2-inch long, shiny
black and usually has a red hourglass mark on the
underside of the abdomen. In some varieties the hourglass
mark may be reduced to two separate spots. Most adult
brown recluse spiders are about the size of a dime to a
quarter with legs extended. Coloration ranges from tan to
dark brown, with the abdomen often darker than the rest of
the body. The feature that most readily distinguishes the
brown recluse from many other harmless spiders is a
somewhat darker violin-shaped marking on the top of the
leg-bearing section of the body. The neck of the violin
"silhouette" points toward the rear (abdomen) of the spider.
Closer examination under magnification will reveal only
three pairs of eyes toward the front of the head most other
spiders have eight eyes. Although both the black widow
and brown recluse have distinctive markings, a "spider is a
spider" to most people. Concerned homeowners or victims
of spider bites should be advised to bring the specimen in
for confirmation.
Spider bites are difficult to diagnose, even by physicians. Black widow venom is a nerve toxin and its effects are rapid. The victim suffers painful rigidity of the abdomen and usually tightness of the chest. Victims should seek medical attention promptly. The bite of the brown recluse is usually painless until 3 to 8 hours later when it may become red, swollen and tender. Later the area around the bite site may develop into an ulcerous sore from " to 10 inches in diameter. Healing often requires a month or longer, and the victim may be left with a deep scar. Prompt medical attention can reduce the extent of ulceration and further complications. Not all brown recluse bites result in ulcerations and scarring.
The brown recluse may be found living indoors or
outdoors. Black widows are more often encountered
outdoors. Thorough inspection of cracks, corners, and other dark,
undisturbed areas with a bright flashlight is an essential first step
in determining the location and extent of infestation. Indoors,
pay particular attention to basements, attics, crawl spaces,
closets, under/behind beds and furniture, inside shoes,
boxes of stored items, and between hanging clothing.
Brown recluse spiders also may be found living above
suspended ceilings, behind baseboards, and inside
ductwork or floor/ceiling registers. Another way to detect
infestations in these areas is to install several glueboards or
sticky traps. Designed to capture mice and cockroaches,
these devices can be purchased at grocery or farm supply
stores. Placed flush along walls and in corners, they are
useful monitoring tools and will also capture large
numbers of spiders.
Brown recluse and black widow spiders also live outdoors in barns, utility sheds, woodpiles, and underneath lumber, rocks, and accumulated debris. To avoid being bitten, wear work gloves when inspecting inside boxes or when moving stored items.
Each of the management tips (1-6) mentioned above for spiders in general are useful for the black widow and brown recluse. Removal of unnecessary clutter is especially helpful in making areas unattractive to these pests. Indoor infestations of brown recluse and black widow also warrant treatment with insecticides. Insecticides should be applied into areas where spiders are living, making an attempt to contact as many spiders and webs as possible with the treatment. Most household insecticides with spiders listed on the label will kill spiders provided the spider is treated directly. Spot treatment with pyrethroids such as those mentioned earlier is especially effective. In attics, storage sheds, and other inaccessible or cluttered areas, total-release foggers (e.g., Raid Max, containing cylathrin=cyfluthrin) will have a better chance of contacting spiders that are hidden.
Severe infestations of brown recluse or black widow spiders require specialized skills, persistence and equipment to eradicate. In these situations, it would be prudent to call a professional pest control operator.
Diagnostic lab samples this past week included gray leaf spot on corn; charcoal rot, Fusarium stem rot, soybean cyst nematode, frogeye leaf spot, and southern blight on soybean; black shank, soreshin, Fusarium wilt, blue mold, frogeye leaf spot, tomato spotted wilt virus and lightning injury on tobacco.
On fruit and vegetable samples, we diagnosed downy mildew on grape; cane borer on blackberry; Mycosphaerella leaf spot on strawberry; anthracnose on bean; yellow vine decline and vine borer injury on pumpkin; Phytophthora fruit rot on watermelon; Septoria leaf spot, Fusarium wilt, root knot nematode, and yellow shoulder on tomato.
On ornamentals, we have seen bacterial leaf spot on salvia; Heterosporium leaf spot on iris; anthracnose on bentgrass; brown patch on fescue and bentgrass; powdery mildew and Septoria leaf spot on dogwood; Dutch elm disease on elm; and Verticillium wilt on magnolia and maple.
UKREC-Princeton, KY, August 2 - 9| True Armyworm
| 2
| Corn Earworm
| 96
| European Corn Borer
| 3
| Southwestern Corn Borer
| 83
| Fall Armyworm
| 0
| | |
NOTE: Trade names are used to simplify the information presented in this newsletter. No endorsement by the Cooperative Extension Service is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products that are not named.
Lee Townsend
Extension Entomologist
